Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
